December 14, 2006

Religious freedom in Morocco? Not yet.

Filed under: Culture — taamarbuuta @ 5:13 pm
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“Morocco’s Christian converts irk the world of Islam” from WorldWide Religious News

by Sammy Ketz (AFP, December 13, 2006)

Rabat, Morocco - They might have Islamic names like Mohammed or Ali, but every Sunday these Moroccan converts to Christianity go discreetly to “church” — to the ire of Islamic militants and under the suspicious eye of police.

“There are about a thousand of us in around 50 independent churches across the big cities of the kingdom,” explained Abdelhalim, who coordinates these evangelical Protestant groups in Morocco.

“As we are tolerated, but not recognized (by the state) we must, for security reasons, conduct ourselves as a clandestine organisation,” said the 57-year-old, who preferred to use a pseudonym.

“As soon as a church has 20 worshippers it splits in two,” said Abdelhalim, a doctor who converted to Christianity 16 years ago when he was living abroad.

Islam is the state religion in Morocco, a country of 30 million people that counts only 5,000 Jews and 1,000 Christians, according to figures given by the two groupings.

Although you cannot be sentenced if you convert to Christianity, it is illegal to proselytize under Moroccan law.

And while official Catholic, Orthodox and Protestant churches are recognized by Morocco, they are only for foreigners living in the country. Moroccan Christians have no right to pray in these churches.

However when Abdelhalim returned home seven years ago, he said he was astonished by the growing number of converts to Christianity.

“At the beginning of the 1990s there were 400 of us, four years ago around 700 and today more than 1,000,” he said.

Most of the converts belong to the middle classes and work in the private sector or as engineers. But these new evangelical Christians also count among their numbers craftsmen, housewives, students and young unemployed people.

Christianity was established in North Africa in the third century AD but was supplanted by Islam in the seventh century. In the early 1990s, Christianity started to get a new foothold when foreign missionaries passed on the word to Moroccans.

As for Morocco’s main cities, seven of these “free churches” — not linked to any international Protestant church — are in Marrakesh, six in Casablanca, five in Rabat and even one in El Ayoun, the regional capital of the western Sahara.

“Television and the Internet are very efficient methods and in our church a soldier became Christian through the Al Hayat channel,” said 30-year-old Youssef, who also preferred to use a pseudonym.

“For many of us, Islam is perceived as a social straitjacket and not as a real faith, and Christianity as a religion of tolerance and love,” said the businessman, who converted at the age of 19 and was later followed by his family.

Yet in the eyes of the state they remain Muslim.

“Officially, my son and I are Muslim,” said Abdelhalim. “We hold Christian marriages and bless the young couple but this is not recognized by the state. They must go before the Muslim clergy and marry according to Sharia (Islamic law). If they don’t do this, they can be charged with adultery.”

The same goes for death. “I cannot be buried in a Christian cemetery, only in a Muslim one,” he said.

Jack Wald, 55, an American and pastor of the Rabat International Church — one of the “official” Christian churches — who has lived in Morocco since 2000 also cites the role of technology.

It “means that a country or religion cannot isolate itself from the rest of the world. This happened in eastern Europe and is happening in China and North Korea. The same is true with Muslim countries,” he said.

“Radio, television and the Internet have opened up doors for people to hear a different message than the one the imam preaches on Fridays.”

Youssef estimated that 60 percent of the Moroccan converts became Christian through personal contacts, 30 percent via television or Internet and 10 percent via missionaries.

Three evangelist Christian satellite channels which are beamed into Morocco in the Arabic language give witness accounts, hymns and prayers: Al Hayat and Sat 7 from Cyprus, and Miracle from Canada.

Discretion is the order of the day for Morocco’s Christians, with the faithful holding services in their homes, against a background of suspicion from the Islamic world.

“We have to be careful because ordinary people cannot understand that we can be Arabs without being Muslim. For us the biggest danger is ignorance,” Abdelhalim said.

The Christian converts also have article 220 of the penal code hanging over their heads, which provides for prison sentences of between six months and three years for anyone who tries to undermine a Muslim’s faith or to convert him to another religion.

“I have been summoned to the police station dozens of times,” said Youssef. He nonetheless says that Morocco is considered more tolerant than other Muslim countries thanks to King Mohammed VI, who has encouraged reforms to fight poverty, boost women’s rights and thwart any slide towards Islamic extremism in the kingdom.

Radouan Benchekroun, the president of the council of Muslim scholars in Casablanca is, however, unaccommodating.

“To deny one’s religion, it is the biggest sin that a Muslim can commit,” he said.

Islamic militants insist these conversions “are not accepted by the population,” according to Lahcen Daoudi, a deputy for the Islamist Justice and Development Party.

“As long as it remains at the individual level we can turn a blind eye. The problem is on the social level. If there is proselytism or if children or teachers come to school with the Crucifix, we cannot tolerate that,” Daoudi said.

December 12, 2006

My trip to virtual Morocco

Filed under: Uncategorized — taamarbuuta @ 5:14 pm

Last night I joined the group of students and professors who created the Virtual Morocco mentioned in my last entry…What an amazing project! We met outside the Hassan II Mosque, took a tour inside, got a free tarboosh to wear, and I even met a Moroccan professor teaching in the U.S. (he remarked how unbelievable it was that he was speaking to an American in his country via a program based in California - good point technology!)

I hope there are no copyrights, because I took a couple of photos of the meeting. I’m the one without a body, unfortunately - apparently Second Life has a few little bugs, but on the whole, it was a fantastic adventure to meet with a bunch of virtual bodies in virtual Morocco.

Remember, I’m the bodyless mass of hair wearing a tarboosh.
virtul_morocco_2_001.jpg

Moroccan pickup lines

Filed under: Culture — taamarbuuta @ 5:14 pm

Compliments of TelQuel and my husband, I present…Moroccan pick-up lines:

Jlaleb ou lqoualeb = Girls who wear djellabas look so traditional but are also smart and sexy.

Koullek zebda ou mnin nebda = You’re all butter, where can I start? (Implication - she’s soft and easy)

Wach hada karr walla douar al askar = Is that an ass or a military camp? (karr = butt/ass)

Allah yatina chi nsiba nddiwouha l’haj = Hey girl, I want to bring your mother on the hajj (and be my wife)

Na’at mlioune a’ala smar alloune = I will give a million for a girl who has brown eyes.

Shibh jazirat allouhoum al arabia = You’re originally Arab (wow, that’s a good pick-up line, genius) 

Dak sder a’ndek dial lbatata ou zitoun = Your breasts would look beautiful with potatoes and olives. (Reference to Moroccan tajine with chicken breast)

Ntouma tzayrou ou hna ntkhayrou = You wear tight clothes and we choose (between you)

Nass hazza lhem ou nti hazza lhemma = People carry problems and you carry pride.

Well damn.  For one, it’s pretty incredible that they printed karr.  And two, EW.

December 11, 2006

Virtual Morocco

Filed under: Uncategorized — taamarbuuta @ 5:16 pm

defaultFrom the NMC Campus Observer:

A group from Johnson & Wales University has teamed up with the Moroccan Ministry of Tourism to create a Virtual Morocco using the program Second Life, a gaming platform designed for multi-player virtual reality.

The New Media Consortium states:

Virtual Morocco contains monuments and experiences from Casablanca, Rabat, and Marrakesh, and includes space for projecting real-world events into the virtual environment. The goals of this multidisciplinary team project are to provide an immersive experience that educates visitors about Moroccan culture while enticing them to think about Morocco as a travel destination.

Tonight, the New Media Consortium will be hosting a “Teachers Buzz Group” at 2 am GMT to take a field trip to Virtual Morocco.  Anyone is allowed to attend.  The meeting spot can be found here, but first you must download the Second Life program, which can be found by following the previous link.

I’ll do my best to be there; look for taamarbuuta.

 

December 10, 2006

I’m a 22 year old blonde female…am I safe in Morocco?

Filed under: Travel — taamarbuuta @ 5:16 pm

Go to any travel forum and you’ll find questions just like this.  The age and nationality (but never the hair color) vary, but the questions follow the same pattern of sheer, utter terror when it comes to visiting Morocco.  Although my true desire is to scream, “NO, YOU’RE NOT!  DON’T COME!” my honesty and desire for money to filter into Morocco gets the best of me and I only reply in a slightly snarky manner.

The most absurd thing, however, is how defensive I get of Moroccans when this question is asked.  I mean, the truth is that I always feel SAFE in Morocco, but I certainly don’t always feel at ease, relaxed, comfortable, unbothered, or any number of other delightful adjectives.   So why my defense?  There’s a number of reasons.

#1 And people say Moroccans treat tourists badly.

Which is not entirely untrue, of course.  Moroccans frequently up their prices threefold for tourists (which is in my opinion justifiable, but that’s not the point); tourists, on the other hand, often deserve it.  Not because they’re so wealthy or anything trite like that - because the tourists treat the Moroccans like crap!  This is most prevalent in Marrakech; I remember a time last November…I was in Marrakech for a couple of days for a conference and had a bit of time to shop, so I was running around like a chicken with her head cut off trying to find the exact items I needed.  At my last stop, intent on buying two Moroccan shirts, I waited behind a British tourist purchasing a djellaba.  The shopkeeper (as many in Marrakech do) spoke perfect English and told her the djellaba would cost 300 dirhams.  She, of course, found this price absurd and took the advice of the guidebooks and bargained.  “200,” she said.  Now, any veteran knows that it’s important for anyone, tourist or otherwise, to cut the initial cost in half to start one’s bargaining, but regardless, she did her duty.  The man replied, “290,” not being a man of large increments.  After a bit of back and forth, they eventually agreed on 250 dirhams which is a decent price for a Brit if you ask me.  The woman stepped out of the shop for a moment to speak with her friend (small shop, nowhere to stand) then returned and said “I only have 200 dirhams.”  Djellaba already in hand, she gave the man the cash and walked out before he had a chance to say anything.

My eyes must have been popping out of my head, because the man laughed and said it happens all the time.  And then, after engaging him in a brief, simple and polite Arabic conversation, he priced each shirt I’d chosen at 50 dirhams each (which is extremely reasonable for a tourist).  I said “45 each,” he said “done” and I went on my merry way, knowing that I’d just paid somewhere around what my husband would pay in another city.   Which brings me to my second point…

#2 - Bitch, please.  The whole world doesn’t have to speak English.

This coming from me, a girl who just recently picked up a second language, and not even fluently.  Even better - I don’t speak anything fluently aside from English, but I manage to garner respect no matter where I travel.  It’s really not too difficult - learn “please,” “thank you,” “excuse me,” “how much,” and the numbers in any language, and you’re good to go.  Now, I can’t say I always play by this rule - when visiting Germany and the Czech Republic this year, I didn’t get beyond please or thank you because everyone seemed so eager to speak English.  There, it was a reasonable request, given that English is the second language of both countries.  But in Morocco, where the second language is French, it makes a huge difference if you can speak a few words of that or Arabic.

I’m not a boastful person, however, when I meet other foreigners who’ve just been shopping, I’m always tempted to ask (and sometimes do) how much they paid for items which I’ve purchased in the past.  More often than not, I find that I paid somewhere between 70 and 90 percent of what they paid.  A “Touareg” scarf, which is priced anywhere between 20 and 50 dirhams in the big cities, should only cost about 15-20 and shouldn’t bleed too badly when washed.  Bilgha (babouches), Moroccan slippers, can cost a tourist up to 120dh (depending on quality of course) but should only cost 40-50dh.

Why the discrepancy if we’re all white and look to be about the same income level (and age)?  The fact is, if you don’t make the effort to appreciate Morocco and Moroccans (which requires a little bit of language skill), sellers have no reason to respect your wallet.  A little “Salam aleikum” will go a long way.  So will dressing properly…

#3 - Outside of Agadir, you oughtta leave your shorts at home, girl.

I wish I could show you photographs of some of my Moroccan students.  I have a few who saunter into class wearing knee-high stiletto boots, miniskirts, midriff showing, big gaudy earrings, way too much makeup - sometimes I’m almost certain they’re headed to work afterward, if you know what I mean.  Sixteen-year-olds!  In fact, they’re just exercising one of the few freedoms that teenage girls have - dressing as they like.

You do not have that same freedom.  Well, you do of course, but I can guarantee you’re going to get ten times the hassle they do.  Why?  For one, you’re not Moroccan, two you’re probably not Muslim, and three, you may very well look like the girls they see in those favorites of Western film, girls who tend to have few scruples.

So how can you avoid being mistaken for that kind of girl?  Not dressing like that kind of girl, of course.  It can be frustrating in some ways, wanting to be yourself and not hold anything back - but I’ve found that being myself even in terms of fashion is possible, if I follow a few ground rules:

-Don’t wear anything that falls more than an inch above the knee (men, just don’t wear shorts please - they look stupid anyway).

-Your breasts are far sexier than your upper arms - worry less about long sleeves and more about cleavage.

-Don’t cover your hair - most Moroccan girls don’t and if you’re not otherwise dressed Islamically, you’ll just look stupid.  Besides, hijabis get hit on by Moroccan men too, you know.

-You can be as colorful as you want in your own style, but wearing Moroccan clothes will mostly just make you stand out.

I wear short sleeves, I wear my hair down, I wear jeans nearly every day.  I only don a djellaba on the occasional Friday for couscous, and I never wear jewelry other than earrings, my wedding ring, and a small necklace.  Am I still myself?  Certainly.  Am I drawing a whole lot of attention?  Well, not for that reason anyway.

December 9, 2006

Cosmetic surgery boom hits Morocco

Filed under: Culture — taamarbuuta @ 5:24 pm

Reprinted with permission from Magharebia.com

By Sarah Touarhi for Magharebia in Rabat — 08/12/06

[File] Moroccans are increasingly going under the knife in pursuit of beauty.

Cosmetic surgery is booming in Morocco. Specialists in the field are delighted with the progress already made after just a few years of business, thanks to Moroccans’ infatuation with beauty. Practices in Europe and the United States are taking root in Morocco.

According to plastic surgeon Ramzy Rachid, Morocco is seeing a growing number of clients. The majority of practices have seen the number of patients double or even triple over the last few years. “Many patients come to us for simple size reductions,” Rachid says. He says 60% to 70% of cosmetic surgery patients are younger than 40. “We are a long way from the average age of the past, which was sixty years. There’s no typical profile.”

The consumer “ends up being influenced by new images and techniques shown constantly on television. Cosmetic surgery has become a solution for many people. In the past, it was restricted to the elite. Today it has become accessible to people from all layers of society,” Sociologist Abou al Mahacine Ali says.

Prices in Morocco are within reach for many in the country. In fact, prices do not follow any set rule — with no fixed prices, patients can haggle. The same operation will cost one patient twice what it costs another.

Liposuction can cost from 10,000 to 40,000 dirhams, a breast implant from 20,000 to 30,000 dirhams. Lift surgery prices start at 25,000 dirhams. A face and neck lift will cost between 25,000 and 35,000 dirhams. Cosmetic surgery to eyelids is from 8,000 to 12,000 dirhams. A new nose costs between 5,000 and 15,000 dirhams. Hair transplants go for between 6,000 to 10,000 dirhams per session.

According to Dr. Ahmed Bourra, a pioneer in hair transplants in Morocco, these prices are not inflated. “Certainly, people on the minimum wage cannot dream of cosmetic surgery. But some people can have cosmetic procedures thanks to credit.”

Morocco has also become a destination for medical tourism. Westerners use have their procedures done in the country because of low prices and the discretion of being abroad. Tour companies are increasingly offering packages that include cosmetic surgery.

Morocco is starting to train specialists who are heading out to the smaller towns or country areas to practise cosmetic surgery and surgical dermatology. Funding, however, is a problem. Insurance companies consider cosmetic operations a luxury, and do no pay for these procedures.

Still, in the university hospitals of Rabat and Casablanca, officials are starting to show an interest in the sector. The two university hospitals have a plastic and cosmetic surgery centre, a burns unit and a cosmetic dermatology centre.

Professor Fahd Benslimane says that patients are not always warned of the risks, and it is not always possible to improve certain imperfections. “Ethics require the doctor to be frank with his patient, who must be informed that cosmetic surgery is carried out principally to improve their condition, but other imperfections may appear.”

Filed under: Travel, Photography — taamarbuuta @ 5:20 pm

Yesterday, my husband and I took a trip to the American Consulate to start some immigration stuff (have no fear, we’re not going anywhere anytime soon, but as citizenship would allow for him to continue our nomadic aspirations, it’s our best option). Now, I don’t like Casa very much, but I couldn’t believe I’d never seen the Twin Towers or photographed any of the fantastic architecture. So, I experimented with car-window photography. Here are the slightly odd results (and Casa is, I’ve decided, one of the strangest places in this country):

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On the road again…(Why does it always feel like we’re on Mars?)

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From the road…

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Slightly varying masjid architecture…

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Horses on the overpass?

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The world’s largest banquette? (text: Richbond, the name of the company)

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An attempt to photograph things that would be interesting to me were it not my thousandth time seeing them.

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A bit of color in a rather drab city…

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The slightly impressive Twin Center.

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This little kid was hilarious - he approached us selling gum for 5 dh. My partner in donkey-riding crime bought a pack, then proceeded to engage the kid for a few minutes. I remarked that he was “so little” and the youth mimicked back, “So little.” He continued to do this for a few minutes, then moved onto his next quest. As he was parked outside of a fancy department store and it was 3:00 pm, I have a feeling his mother was nearby.

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Odd sight in a Muslim country, aye?

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This fella was pretty close to our car.

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This mosque actually SPARKLES!

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(Here’s where our sense of direction got messed up)

Say “Sidi Moumen” and most people here will automatically think of it as where the terrorists live…In the past few years, the suburb of big bad Casablanca has made news for being where the Madrid and Casablanca bombers are from, for having curfews imposed on its residents by Islamic parties, and for its extreme poverty. As we discovered yesterday upon getting lost on our way to the autopiste, it’s not somewhere I’d want to end up…

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How foreboding…

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It doesn’t look so bad from here.

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Construction in this method is a fairly normal sight, but in Sidi Moumen most of the buildings look to be in this state.

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Narrow homes…

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Blurry sheep.

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Espace Sportif et de Distraction de Sidi Moumen.  Does “distraction” have a different implication in French?

And on our way home, more of those awful trucks.  This one in particular, carrying three layers of Butagaz (used for cooking, heating water, and heating the house -  highly necessary), almost ran us over.

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Next time, I’m heading south.

December 8, 2006

Hors de Prix!

Filed under: Uncategorized — taamarbuuta @ 5:25 pm

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All over Casablanca - signs for this film, starring the world-famous Audrey Tautou and one of Morocco’s (and France’s) own, Gad el Maleh.  Every poster in Casablanca says, “Premiere Mondial” (world premiere) so, as you can imagine, I was pretty excited to go…a world premiere!  In Morocco!

 

Indeed, the posters were either stolen or reproduced.  Though there will be a premiere of sorts (presumably without el Maleh, whose face I’m in love with in this picture) on December 13th, it is not the first, but a long shot.

December 6, 2006

The terror of the road to Fes…

Filed under: Photography — taamarbuuta @ 5:33 pm

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Ever seen one of these?  We don’t like to pass them very much.

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Here’s a front view.

Despite the fact that they’re stacked higher than Paul Bunyan’s pancakes, I’ve never seen one tip.  On the contrary, three fairly normal buses have tipped in the past couple of months.

The Meknes Bar Report

Filed under: Travel, Guides — taamarbuuta @ 5:31 pm

On the LP Thorntree, people are always asking about where they can get a drink in this city or that city…I can honestly tell you I’ve only drunk once in Fez (at the Palais Jamai, hello 55dh Heineken!), and in Marrakesh have always preferred to purchase my own wine and take it to wherever I’m staying.  Rabat is dead after 10 pm, and I don’t set foot in Casa unless I have to.  But Meknes, ah Meknes!  For such a two-horse town, you’d be surprised at the great number of drinking holes.

My personal favorite is Novelty.   For those of you who’ve been to Morocco, I’m sure you’re all too familiar with the big ugly bars with perhaps an Amstel sign and pastel-painted door out front; the kind no woman in her right mind would ever set foot inside.  Novelty used to be one of these; somehow and for no known reasons, an older Italian man bought it out and fixed it up with some nice woodwork, good food, TAPAS, cheap prices, and get this - draught beer!  It’s quite lovely, I feel totally comfortable there with Hamza or alone, and I’ve never gotten sick from the food.  Additionally, they stay open quite late and they have Corona for less than 50dh - a rarity in this country.  (Rue de Paris, Hamrya)

A next good bet, though pricey, is the classy Le Pub.  All sorts of rumours have flown about this place, but I have confirmed not one of them.  There’s a bar upstairs with a nice restaurant (which serves real STEAK!) and a rousing bar downstairs with a house band.  They also serve prawn crackers.  I take all visiting foreigners to this place.  Try the lasagna, the steak, or the crab ravioli, and please…have a cognac, just because you can (Allal ben Abdellah, Hamrya)

Hotel Rif is another favorite, perhaps because their shisha is cheap and so are their beers.  Usually live music, plenty of snacks going around (including CHEESE), and lovely seating.  Kind of sketchy, but what bar in Morocco isn’t? (Antisirabe, Hamrya)

Other good bets:

Hotel de Nice - tiny bar, good snacks, no hassle, cheapish beer.

Zaki Hotel - Would be more highly recommended if it weren’t so far; plus, the bar is overpriced and somewhat boring.

Hotel Ibis - only if you’re jonesing for a panini with your beer.

Hotel Transatlantique - Only in summer, when there’s a fantastic medina view served up with your 50dh Heiny.

Hotel Malta- the bar’s too loud but it’s got some of the cleanest bathrooms in the city!

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